The art of embroidery is considered one of the Palestinian folk arts inherited through generations,
which has evolved over time into a craft. It became a source of livelihood for a large group of
women in
Palestine; It has characteristics that are compatible with the social and economic environment of
the
Palestinian society. This development was accompanied by the creation of new models with high
aesthetic
values inspired by the originality of this craft.
Palestinian women, especially rural
ones, were distinguished for their mastery of the art of embroidery; I used it in many areas of
life; As she adorned her house, her dress, and her own utensils; Her drawings, decorations and
colors are inspired by the nature of her country and the local environment; That is why we see
Palestinian embroidery differs from one region to another in the coordination of colors and
graphics; Each geographical area has its own elements, components and decorative formations that
derive from it and are appropriate for it.
It is difficult for the researcher to date the art of Palestinian embroidery for various reasons,
the most important of which is that fabrics and threads wear out over time; They are not able to
resist the factors of nature; That is why it is rare to find samples of Palestinian embroidery
dating back to the period before the nineteenth century.
Palestine's unique location in being at the crossroads of Europe, Asia and Africa has played an
important role in enriching this rich heritage. In addition to the successive civilizations in the
region, including the Canaanite, Jebusite, and Amorite civilizations; And the many invasions that
have passed on this land.
Embroidery, with its drawings and types, has undergone fundamental changes with the passage of time.
In the nineteenth century and the first quarter of the twentieth century, we find that the
embroidery patterns and drawings were primarily geometric in shape; In the thirties of the last
century, new influences began to appear that changed the privacy of traditional embroidery, such as
embroidery threads manufactured in Europe, which were accompanied by brochures on Western
embroidery, and all found their way to the Palestinian markets, so Western drawings such as flowers,
birds and animals leaked into the traditional dresses of women. This was evident in the fifties and
continues to this day.
I knew the villages of Palestinian women in the past from their
dresses; After examining the drawings and colors drawn on them; The decorative units on the garment
constituted an important indicator of the identity of the village or region; The woman knows these
drawings well, and inherits this information from her mother and grandmother; She begins to learn
the art of embroidery at an early age; Vtgrs the need to transfer the drawings of her village on her
dresses. As the woman was faithful in conveying the heritage of her village, she was creative in
changing her embroidery, so she acquired the traditional drawings of her own taste, without
compromising the basic structure of the composition.
Although these changes were minor; However, it gave the dresses a renewed luster. Another factor
influenced the development of traditional graphics; It is intermarriage between the people of
different parts of Palestine; As the women moved with their husbands to other villages or regions,
they moved with them some of the drawings of their original villages to their new villages, or vice
versa, and put them on their dresses.
The development of means of transportation, such as trains and buses, has also encouraged the people
of Palestine to move and visit; Which made women see more closely other dresses in other regions;
What contributed to the exchange of embroidery drawings; The Palestinian woman, like other women,
desires renewal and creating an aesthetic world in her dress and adornment.
Although renewal and alteration were always apparent, some drawings remained limited to their
specific geographical locations; The Ramallah area, for example, was known for its use of the palm
tree; the Hebron region, with what is called the Pasha’s tent; the region of Jaffa, painted with
cypress with a base; the area of Gaza, painted with a pillow or scissors; As for Beersheba and its
area, it was known for its use of veiling. Although such drawings may distinguish one region from
another, we also find them in various forms and different compositions scattered throughout
Palestine.
1- The dome: It is the closest piece to the face. Its linguistic origin is (the title), which is what
goes into the pocket of the shirt on the patches; But it means in the Palestinian dialect (the
collar of the dress).
2- Tail: It is the lower back part of the garment. Its linguistic origin is “tail” and its
plural is “tails”, that is, what is dragged from the garment if it is swept away.
3- Al-Benika: It is the side of the dress and its linguistic origin is Al-Benika.
4- The sleeve: it is the entry and exit of the hand from the garment.
1- Silk thread: The most expensive and heaviest thread. The dress embroidered with it weighs eight
kilograms, and is only worn in celebrations.
2- Cotton thread: it is embroidered on all kinds of clothes, and it is cheap, but some
cotton threads fade and the colors of some of them dissolve on the colors of others.
3- The reeded thread: In the north of Palestine they embroider the tunic and the taqsir,
and in the white Dajani dress, the upper chest and the violin are embroidered on velvet fabric.
4- Machine thread: It is embroidered on satin fabric only, by machine. This thread is also
used to connect the parts of the dress to each other, and they embroider a silk thread over the
link.
1- Work clothes are less decorated than clothes for seasons and occasions.
2- Unmarried girls are not allowed to wear adornment colors except for kohl; Therefore,
they
compensated for this by decorating their clothes with bright colors.
3- Customs require that each girl embroider her clothes on her own.
4- The greater the thickness of the thread and its luster and the decorated area on the
garment, the
greater its aesthetic and material value.
5- The decorations of older women are less ornate than the clothes of girls, as they must
be of
thick fabric, dark in color and often black on the floor; or dark purple or beige; Also, the colors
of its decorative units are dark, and they are called (the colors of decency) and they mean
"dignity".
6- Ornamentation (embroidery) was limited to women's clothing, starting from the Islamic
conquest
The stitch is known in the popular Palestinian dialect as "Qutbah", and it is the
basis that finally gives the general shape of the embroidered decorative units. Among the most
popular stitches used are:
1- Sclerosis
2- the tide
3- Teething
4- editorial
5- Machine stitch
6- Silk culture stitch
7- The thread
8- twisting
9- Altanbita
10- Zigzag.
Finally, it is necessary to point out the danger to which the Palestinian folk
embroidery art has been exposed, and still is. Where the Zionist movement and the occupation
attempted to steal the Palestinian heritage by distorting the Palestinian folk costumes, by
introducing decorative units for the art of Palestinian embroidery, and establishing embroidery
workshops; for the purpose of obliterating this heritage; Participation in international fashion
shows, and claim that these costumes are from their heritage; As well as the purchase and disposal
of old embroideries, ensuring that no trace of them remains, and distorting the general shape of the
dress, by shifting the places of decorations on the parts of the dress, and changing the names and
shapes of the decorative units; Despite this, the Palestinian heritage remained steadfast and was
not broken or vanished.
Peter Berry
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Cerica Smith
Yuroin non lorem ac erat suscipit bibendum. Nulla facilisi. Sedeuter nunc volutpat, mollis sapien veli, conseyer turpeutionyer massa in libero semper sedeuter nunc volutpat, mollis sapien veletion.
Cerica Smith
Yuroin non lorem ac erat suscipit bibendum. Nulla facilisi. Sedeuter nunc volutpat, mollis sapien veli, conseyer turpeutionyer massa in libero semper sedeuter nunc volutpat, mollis sapien veletion.